A quick tour through our time in Glasgow, post-Elvis Costello concert. Rough sleep, post-concert: The guy in the room next door snored violently. Yes, that loud. Another room was found for our second night.
Then, breakfast at the B&B, where the same Norah Jones song played over and over again in the kitchen.
We strolled through beautiful Kelvingrove Park* (the * means something free!), visited the the Hunterian Art Gallery* to look at paintings by the Glasgow Boys and Scottish Colourists, and had good timing with a guided tour (was excellent) of the Mackintosh House*, which is part of the Hunterian. The house is a re-creation (with original artifacts and furniture) of the home of Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, about which you can read a bit here.
Hot day! We walked around the Glasgow University area of Byres Road, where R had stayed on a 2008 visit. A lively place. We settled on very late lunch at The Wee Curry Shop: we were the only people in the restaurant. Here’s the view from our window, in lieu of a photograph of our food.
Then the subway to Scotland Street School Museum, a building designed by Mackintosh and opened in 1906. At the time, the neighborhood hummed with the shipbuilding industry; now, it’s a little bleak, and the school closed in 1979. Evocative architecture and lots of info inside the old classrooms, though a rather ghostly experience.
Back to the Kelvingrove area around our guesthouse, for cake and coffee and newspaper-reading at Montgomerys. No apostrophe.
Slouching at the guest house with a movie: Howards End, also no apostrophe.
Saturday, more brekky at guesthouse, and yes, more Norah Jones. In fact the same song again. And again.
Did we mention the guesthouse cat, Flash? He’s an old fellow – 22. (Looks like someone got an Elvis Costello T-shirt. Her previous one didn’t make it out of the 90s.)
Took the bus to/from The Burrell Collection*, south of town, across the River Clyde. Sir William Burrell was a shipping magnate who devoted the latter decades of his life to amassing stuff, then donated it — some 9,000 works — to the city of Glasgow; this is his Xanadu. (He could have been a model for Citizen Kane, and indeed sometimes competed with William Randolph Hearst when bidding for/buying works items). Amazing trove of ancient objects, tapestries, artworks, and whatnots. Dude really liked stained glass, too. We didn’t take many pictures inside, but one of them was of Manet’s The Ham. Really have to cut back on this habit of photographing food.
Back in the City Center, we took a quick look inside the pretty Glasgow Film Theatre, originally opened in 1939. Lots of original fixtures and cool design inside. Plus nice posters.
A walk around the corner to the Glasgow School of Art*, the Mackintosh-designed building hit with a serious fire in 2014. No going inside for some time, but the façade remains.
Then, lunch at The Wilson Street Pantry, in the Merchant City part of Glasgow. Very friendly staff. In fact most Glaswegians seem outgoing and lively. Even the ones whose patter we couldn’t entirely understand. Now is an excellent time to suggest that you watch this, a selection of Stanley Baxter’s skits that, once again, we’re indebted to Boots T. for turning us on to.
Finally, a stop at the Lighthouse*, a Mackintosh building that has been somewhat mysteriously swallowed up by a building that surrounds it. But it does have an information centre for all things Mackintoshian, and some good views from high spots.
Early evening train back to Edinburgh. No snoring heard upon arrival home.
See youz aw later, we’re offski, which is goodbye from both of us.