36-ish hours in glencoe

You just walked three stages of the West Highland Way. What are you going to do now? Answer: Spend a little time in Glencoe Village.


We booked two nights’ lodging, which included breakfast, during which the host threatened to sue the weather gods several times. As you saw from our photies, it wasn’t all sunscreen and insect repellant. It was just insect repellent.

Narrowly missing the start of a downpour on our first evening, we had just enough time to pop into Crafts & Things, where we shared a main dish of veg. curry. Then, back to our lodging for hot showers, no WiFi, hand-washing-laundry-in-the-sink, and watching TV.

Sunday: A hearty breakfast and…a walk to the National Trust for Scotland Visitor Centre, about a mile out of town (pictures below); a flapjack snack in their café; a walk on a Visitor Centre trail; a walk back to the village for lunch (incredibly tasty bowls of sweet potato-and-tomato soup with homemade bread) at the Glencoe Café, which was wonderfully busy.


Afterward, a stroll to the MacDonald Monument. It was near this site in 1692 that the Glencoe Massacre took place, in which 38 members of the MacDonald clan were murdered by the guests to whom they’d been providing Highland hospitality. Still a sore point hereabouts.


Still later, and after a group of tourists asked us for directions, a 45-minute walk along the orbital track along the old Glencoe road to our destination: supper at the Clachaig Inn. (Mountain is called Aonach Dubh towering above the Glen.)


Monday: A final breakfast and we checked-out in time to catch the bus we were aiming for. (Few things are as satisfying as making travel connections, especially in little places like this.) Next stop: Fort William, where we had an hour ’til our train departed. Walked down the High Street for some recce of best place for train picnic provisions. We got a takeaway sarnie and (yay!) a slice of cake that was a twist on a Scottish dessert called cranachan. 5+ hour train trip? Bring it on.

On the bus to Ft. William.
On the bus to Ft. William.
Missed the Sheep Races. Well, there's always Pamplona.
Missed the Sheep Races. Well, there’s always Pamplona.


Part of the trip is across Rannoch Moor, which looks even more desolate here than it does in the section we walked through on the West Highland Way.

The very lonely station at Corrour.
The very lonely station at Corrour.


Tune in again to see how we spent our final ten days (and a wake up) in Edinburgh.


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